Each brick box holds 64+ of the same-shape piece. So the 1×1 box will hold 64 1×1 bricks, and the 2×2 holds 64 2×2 bricks. The larger ones hold a few more due to how the sizing works out. The 1×1 box is 40mm per side (external dimensions).

I posted the patterns on Thingiverse should anyone wish to make their own. No,  I'm not going to make and sell them. They're time consuming to make, and plus I'm pretty sure Lego would sue me. If you don't have access to a laser cutter, I'd suggest using a service like Ponoko.

The patterns were generated in OpenSCAD using the following code. Change "rows" and "cols" to get the lego size you desire. By the way, I’m teaching a class on OpenSCAD in Brooklyn next weekend!

fundamental_unit = 0.8;
thickness =3;
h_pitch = 10;
v_pitch = 12;
tform = 5;
knob = fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform;
module side(rows){
	lwidth = rows*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform;
	lheight = v_pitch*fundamental_unit*tform;
	difference() {
 
		square(size=[lwidth, lheight]);
		translate(v=[10,0,0]) square(size=[lwidth-20,thickness]);
		translate(v=[10,lheight-thickness,0]) square(size=[lwidth-20,thickness]);
		square(size=[thickness, 10]);
		translate(v=[0,lheight-10]) square(size=[thickness, 10]);
	translate(v=[lwidth-thickness,10]) square(size=[thickness, lheight-20]);
	}
}
module top(rows,cols,holes){
	lwidth = rows*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform;
	llength = cols*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform;
	difference(){
		square(size=[lwidth,llength]);
		square(size=[thickness,10]);
		square(size=[10,thickness]);
		translate(v=[lwidth,0,0]) square(size=[-thickness,10]);
		translate(v=[lwidth,0,0]) square(size=[-10,thickness]);
		translate(v=[lwidth,llength]) square(size=[-10,-thickness]);
		translate(v=[lwidth,llength]) square(size=[-thickness,-10]);	
		translate(v=[0,llength]) square(size=[10,-thickness]);
		translate(v=[0,llength]) square(size=[thickness,-10]);	
		if(holes==true){
			for (i = [1:cols]){
				for (j=[1:rows]){
				translate(v=[j*knob-knob/2,i*knob-(fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform)/2,0]) circle(r=fundamental_unit*6*tform/2);
				}
			}
		}
	}
}
 
rows = 2;
cols = 4;
 
h_spacing =  rows*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform+10;
l_spacing =  cols*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform+10;
v_spacing = fundamental_unit*v_pitch*tform+10;
 
side(rows);
translate(v=[ rows*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform+10,0,0]) side(rows);
translate(v=[0,v_spacing]) side(cols);
translate(v=[ cols*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform+10,v_spacing]) side(cols);
translate(v=[0,2*v_spacing]) top(rows,cols,true);
translate(v=[ rows*fundamental_unit*h_pitch*tform+10,2*v_spacing]) top(rows,cols,false);

In the next batch I'm going to make the nubs a little smaller than the holes. They work now, but it's a bit fiddly getting everything to line up just so. A little more forgiveness would be nice. Also, OpenSCAD does strange things with circles. Rather than simply write a circle in the DXF, it represents it as a bunch of line segments. I’m not sure if there’s a way around this, but it’s marginally irritating.

You can download a .dxf for a few different box sizes on Thingiverse.
I’ve also created a Flickr Collection for my various Lego stuff.

After ordering a few hundred bricks from bricklink, I started working on what is for now a top secret project.

Step one was to practice making spherical and organic LEGO shapes, and I'm pretty happy with the two sphereoids I came up with while catching up on House. PS, Dr House is a huge jerk.

The embroidery hoop is made from laser cut acrylic, and the rubber band provides tension to keep everything in place. The whole thing measures 1.5" across, a standard sewing machine bobbin is show for scale in the picture above. I actually neglected to save the cut file (oops) but it's pretty simple: two concentric rings (0.2" wide), with the outside diameter of the smaller ring being 0.05" smaller than the inside diameter of the larger ring. The large ring has a "nub" on the side for the rubber band, and is split down the middle on that side.

There's about a 1" diameter working area. I used 28 count aida fabric, which gave me approximately 28 "pixels" across to work with. Chris helped me design a cupcake chart for counted cross stitch. It uses 7 colors: white, red, light pink, dark pink, pink, grey, and light grey. It's a nice portable project because it fits in your pocket. I've listed a kit for sale on Etsy and may bring a few down to Spring BadaBing in Richmond, VA this weekend.

Here's the chart for your cross-stitch pleasure:

I had some tiny 1cm paper cranes left over from when I used to make crane earrings.  I covered the basswood stand in origami paper, and glued two of the cranes to straight pins. The whole thing is about an inch and a half tall.

Now I’m trying to decide what I should do with it. Should I just be happy with my crafty Saturday, or try to make it into a new product for Everything Tiny?

Or at least that’s what I did:

Uh yeah. There’s a workspace somewhere in there. Where, I’m not sure. As such operations had to be moved downstairs, the only place with any remaining horizontal surfaces. Oh any my plants died. The DIY aeroponics project was actually incredibly successful. But even pseudo-aeroponic systems need water added every few weeks.

The first step is admitting you have a problem.

The second step is (wait for it…) throwing out all the trash and putting away everything you can. I know it seems obvious but when faced with a room that looks like the scene of a recent natural disaster it can be overwhelming and hard to know where to start. For me, I accumulated a number of new things over the holiday season, so a lot of stuff never had a “home” to begin with. Which led to it simply floating around the room, helping to hide the rest of the junk.

Suddenly, with the trash in the trash can and everything either put away or sitting in a box / on a table awaiting further instructions, you can see the floor:

You still can’t sit in the chair or on the bed, and the tables are still covered in crap, but hey! I have a rug!

At this point, I was at a bit of a loss. If you look at my shelving unit, all the cubes are full. And yet there’s a ton of stuff lying around I don’t know what to do with. It’s hard to see in the pictures, but there’s a secondary workbench on the right which is also piled high with items in need of a place to be. And this is when you call in the big guns. Have a friend come over and help you, if you know anyone vaguely organized.  Your friend will not only keep you motivated and prevent you from simply sitting on the floor staring at the mess (my mother has seen me do this just about every time I move), they’ll also keep you honest. They say things to you like, “Kelly, if you put that box in front of the magazine file and then need a magazine, are you just going to put the box on the floor and leave it there?” And then you (if you’re me) say, “… yes,” and find a better place for said box.

I thought we needed more shelving, but my superstar amazing organizer friend managed to rearrange what was on the existing shelves to fit almost everything. In the above picture we’ve got most of the leftovers condensed to the workbench while my friend assembles some additional drawers for the ubiquitos Ikea EXPEDIT shelving. The workspace still needed some work though, otherwise it would just revert to its natural disaster state as soon as she left. We went to Ikea and got a nice wide desk to replace the drafting table I’d been working on, and separated the workspace into building/making on the right workbench, and shipping/administration/finished products on the left table.

It doesn’t look quite as dramatic in the pictures, but anyone who has been in the room is stunned with the transformation. I’m excited to have a workspace I can actually use. Yay!

Belt Buckle Display

The belt buckle display is made of PVC and wood, and the cost of all the materials was about $20. The goal for the display was to put many of the buckles at eye level and keep the belts themselves from getting tangled up. Bonus points for being able to easily see the backs of the belts to view sizing info.

Parts list:

• 18" long piece of 1×6
• 2 metal flanges for 3/4" pipe
• 4 6" lengths of 3/4" PVC pipe
• 2 16" lengths of 3/4" PVC pipe
• 6 3/4" PVC straight couplings
• 2 couplings to fit the 3/4" pipe into the flange threads
• 3 16" strips of rectangular molding
• Scraps of 1/8" plywood
• 18 magnets
• C clamp to keep it from falling over

To make the rails to hold the buckles/belts, I took the rectangular molding and glued magnets evenly along them, 6 per rail. The buckle backs are steel, so they stick to the magnets pretty well. I used some ceramic magnets and some neodymium magnets because that's what I had lying around, but if I were to do it again I'd probably use all neodymium.

To attach the rails to the PVC I laser cut some rings (shown on the left) out of some scrap 1/8 plywood and glue them to each end of the rails. While I'm lucky enough to have a laser, it's something you could pretty easily cut by hand with a little patience and an appropriately sized drill bit. 

The rings slip over the PVC, and rest on top of the coupling. The whole thing is surprisingly sturdy, and breaks down easily to fit in my Big Box of Craft Show Gear. The C clamp helps keep things stable. The last show I did had super wobbly floors that shook the table any time someone walked by.

Eventually I'd like to make some cloth covers for the PVC pipe, so it's not so ugly, but for the time being the display worked pretty well. I sold a good deal more belt buckles than usual, and I think having them all easy to see was a big part of that.

Pendant Display

The pendant display was made literally the night before the show. I grabbed an Ikea frame and a 12" square piece of grey industrial felt I had lying around. I cut the felt to fit the frame, and had some leftover. From that I cut narrow 1/4" strips of felt the same width as the frame. I glued them at pendant-sized intervals, and the pendants are just thin enough that they can sit on the felt rails. And unlike my last slapdash jewelry display, this one doesn't have nails sticking out the back to stab me.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the two displays, although I sometimes wonder what craft shows would look like if it wasn't for Ikea. The Tinysaurs themselves are in need of some new display furniture, so I'll probably put something together for them in the spring. I'm free from craft shows for a whole four months!

If you're in or near Baltimore this weekend, stop by Squidfire's Holiday Art Mart! Everything Tiny will be there along with awesome folks like ZooGuu and Girls Can Tell. Maybe Mrs. Claus will make an appearance!

Somehow in all this selling madness I found time to eek out a new line. A line of jewelry, none the less! For those of you who don’t know, I actually got my degree in metalsmithing / jewelrymaking. So in some ways it’s not surprising. Except to the people who heard me swear up and down I was done with production jewelry years ago. I think I swore off craft shows around the same time. That might explain why I have 2 scheduled for December.

The pendants are all laser cut acrylic. There are 10 different designs, and they can be theoretically put on any color background although I’ve found there are only a handful of colors which look particularly good. You can find them at Everything Tiny, or on Etsy, or at either of the craft shows I’ll be doing this month:

Squidfire Art Mart – Baltimore, MD on December 12
Brooklyn Lyceum – Brooklyn, NY on December 19th and 20th

For about a year now I’ve been trying to get some more models/kits designed for Everything Tiny. But it’s a super slow process, and admittedly one I don’t spend enough time on.

Today I prototyped a model of a Nikon F, the first SLR camera I used. I started fairly large, cutting with an xacto knife, and ended up somewhere which is still a little bigger than what I hope to get down to.

The largest model is about 1/2 the size of a real Nikon.

There’s still a ton I need to add (F stop / focus rings on the lens, the little button to open the back, etc) but they’re at a good stopping point for today.

After I was done modeling I googled “papercraft camera” to see what other people have done. I specifically waited until after I had my design roughed out. Olympus came out with some which make my little paper models look pathetic. Oh well. Since I want other people to be able to build these I need to keep it a little more sane anyway.

Two hours later I had these two pendants, cut from acrylic plastic on the laser. Each pendant is two layers, one black and one white, glued together. Each one is about 2.5 inches in the longest direction. Chris’s response to them was “I thought they’d be bigger.”

I’ve listed them for sale on Etsy and 1000 Markets under the title “Hipster Jewelry.” Chris suggested that this might be a bad idea, as hipsters notoriously hate hipsters. I pointed out that they LOVE irony. He wasn’t sure they’d be up for meta-irony.

My mother asked what a hipster was, and why I would make jewelry for them. It’s hard to explain what a hipster is to someone who has never had an occasion to interact with them. Or why they have such overbearing self loathing. I told her it is a deroggatory term for people who try to be a certain type of trendy. As for why I made the jewelry – it was just sort of a wild hare. One that I could easily satisfy.